Two routes on the Bearnagh Slabs

"Crooked Chimney" on the Bearnagh Slabs was one of the first routes I climbed in the Mournes, with Mark Anderson back in 2006. Then in April 2007, nine months after my fall on Hen Mountain, Mark Warnock led me up "Grand Central", one of the classic VD grade climbs. It was the first climb after my accident, and I remember really struggling with a very stiff right wrist that has still not quite recovered. The one part of the climb that I remember vividly is the chimney ending right at the top. It's really awkward, and I remember throwing my right hand into a fist-jam and thinking "well at least it can't really come out!"

Last Saturday Mark and I returned to the Bearnagh Slabs, and this time I led up Grand Central, allowing Mark the luxury of seconding it for the first time in seven ascents over the last twelve years. The chimney will be a doddle this time, I thought. Hah! It was a battle again, and when I finally heaved myself onto flat ground at the top I felt as though I'd just been extruded from a meat grinder. At least Mark had the decency to struggle as well (he usually takes the layback alternative to the left of the chimney, probably a more sensible proposition). I had placed a cam for protection that was slightly too big for the crack it was in; as a result I was worried that it might get stuck. When it was Mark's turn to follow me I heard a lot of metallic tinkering sounds interspersed with the occasional Northern Irish grunt. "Is the cam stuck!", I shouted. "No, I've got it, I'm stuck in this chimney though!"

I took this photo of him emerging from the chimney.


After a bite to eat, we climbed Hypothesis, which, along with White Walls on Spellack and Pillar Variant on Lower Cove, is one of the finest routes of its grade in the Mournes. In fact, because it's longer than the other two, I would say it's the best. It's one of those climbs that you just wish was a few pitches longer.



Now, serious climbing photographers are always very scathing of "bumshots" ie photos taken of climbers from below that show that part of the anatomy usually aimed at the camera. But when you're belaying someone leading a climb you tend to snap what you can get. I haven't met a leader yet who'll complain about his second taking a bad photo because he was minding the rope!
But as bumshots go, I don't think this one is too bad.


This is the view looking from the Bearnagh Slabs down past the eastern flank of Slieve Meelmore to the Trassey track, which is the traditional approach to the slabs.