Canada - January 2009

In January of this year, I visited an old friend, Teddy McCrea, a South African who now lives in Calgary. The last time I saw Teddy was in 1999, when he was passing through SA, I remember Lara was just a few months old at the time (she'll be 10 in July!). So it was great to catch up, and also to meet Lynda, Hillary, and Leo the dog (a.k.a. Hosehead).

I was there for about 10 days, and we were really lucky with the weather. Most days were clear and sunny, with temperatures around zero or even just above. It was only the last two days that we had a cold snap, the temp dropping to about -25 C. That was certainly a new experience for me! But the following pics are typical of the weather we had for the majority of my time there.

Well, besides catching up with Teddy, I was also there to try ice climbing, so after hiring some equipment, and also buying some other nice gear that would have cost three times more in Ireland, we set off to the Junkyards, a popular practice area for ice climbers in the Canadian Rockies. Ted showed me the basics, just getting the hang of walking on steep ice is a bit nerve wracking at first.

We then set up a top-rope on a vertical section.

I managed to get things together enough to lead a very easy line also, before we retired to the Grizzly Paw pub in nearby Canmore; we spent quite a bit of time in this establishment over the next 10 days!

The next day Ted, Lynda and I went cross-country skiing. Spent quite a bit of the day on my backside in the snow.

And of course we had to build a snow-man back at the house; Ted later used Photoshop to make the snowman look about 12 feet tall, a picture we sent back to my kids, they were well impressed.

We walked into Grotto the following day, but being a Sunday, and also one of the more accessible areas, it was very crowded. We opted to do some sight-seeing, so we drove via Kicking Horse Canyon across the BC border to a town called Field, really beautiful area and lovely houses. We also stopped off at Lake Louise on the way

We then went back to Grotto towards the end of the day, and walked in as the last of the other climbers were walking out, so we had the place to ourselves. Ice climbing is extremely physical, it's much harder on the whole body that rock climbing. The latter relies more on fine movements, whereas with ice climbing it's much harder to conserve energy, you end up using a whole bunch of it. The following pics were taken at Grotto, or on the walk in to it.

We were back at the Canmore Junkyards a couple of times after this, we climbed on the upper sections of it too. After leading up "Scottish Gully" on the left of the area, Ted dislodged some good sized blocks of ice, one of which hit me on the back of the leg as I was trying to run out the way. I was limping for a couple of days, but fortunately suffered no other damage.

The highlight of the trip, from a climbing point of view, was Cascade Waterfall. This is a multi-pitch route, close to the Trans-Canada highway, and is very prone to avalanches as it lies beneath a huge snow bowl for which it basically serves as a funnel. There was very little snow higher up when we did it though, so not much danger of anything coming down. It was also a glorious day, we were down to T-shirts very soon. We abseiled off before the last steep section, as Ted felt that the ice was not in good enough condition to guarantee secure ice screw placements (well at least that's our story and we're sticking to it)!

The weather deteriorated a bit after this; despite that we did try one last trip back to Grotto, but we had Leo with us, and it was too cold for him. He ended up sitting in the snow lifting his feet up off the ground. We couldn't have left him in the car either, so we ended up just doing a bit of a drive up in the mountains behind Canmore.

This was a fantastic trip, a brand new climbing experience, my first time ever in North America, and great to catch up with Teddy.