We are having the most fantastic weather this weekend, today is the first real summer day we've had this year, sunny with temperatures to match. After fighting off a prolonged bout of tonsillitis (three rounds of ani-biotics later) I took advantage of the dry spell today and went up to Hen Mountain, and soloed four routes; Morgan, Keyhole Crack and Simplicity (all V.Diff grade) and the Boulder Route on the Tower, an easier but longer climb.
This route Morgan, she and I have a relationship. She's a thin seam up an open book. I think of her as female, because if you're bold she welcomes you like a lover, but if you're in any way tentative she makes you grunt and squirm your way up, terrified. A fall would be very serious indeed, probably fatal. There's no soft landing here. Morgan and I have this interesting relationship. I love her, and she barely tolerates me. First move up, ok I can still downclimb here. Next move, that wasn't so bad, well now I'm committed. Morgan seems pleased, but she's not going to make it easier. Next move, falling now would be very bad already. Foot out left, no, not that far, in a bit, that's better. The holds on the right come to my rescue, and I can hear Morgan starting to laugh. The crux is a very committing move, feet smearing to reach a reasonable hold. A few more tentative moves up less steep ground and it's over.
I moved onto Keyhole Crack next, the route next door. Towards the top of it I spend a while getting my body position exactly right for an awkward pull over a bulge. I glance to my left. Morgan's there, watching me in stoic silence. But I can hear her saying, however it is that she does that: Michael Williams, you un-pardonable wuss.
I don't have photos of Morgan. I don't want to share her with anyone else.
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